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ENGLISH WINE AND CIDER
There are 135 wineries and 170 vineyards in England and Wales. One of our members recently went on a Guided Tour of one such local vineyard. Her visit included a walk around the vines, a talk about the wine making process and several wine tastings. Her report on the Tour is below.
Kent’s oldest commercial vineyard is right here on our doorstep in the delightful Wealden village of Biddenden. In 1969 the Barnes family planted an experimental one- third of an acre of vines, today that has grown to 23 acres producing award winning white, red, rose and sparkling wines.
Originally the site was dedicated to some 45 acres of orchards where traditional farm pressed apple and pear juice was produced. Today, snuggled as they are on the southern slopes of the gentle valley, one can discover the 11 different varieties of grape, many of which are of Germanic origin, such as the Dornfelder, Gewurztraminer and Schonburger. The vines are trained espalier style along wires in long rows. Abroad roses grow at each end of a row providing an early indication of any diseases likely to infect the plants. At Biddenden the area is surrounded by hedgerows which do the same job. Each variety of grape brings its own characteristics to a wine. The medium dry soft fruity Ortega accounts for about 50% of current white wine production and a blend of Reichensteiner and Pinot Noir produce a popular dry sparkling white wine.
The grapes are harvested around September or October and taken to the pressing machine. White wine can be made from red or green grapes, providing none of the red skins are allowed into the juices, as this is where the colour comes from. A huge stainless steel press with an internal “balloon” gentle presses the grapes and the extracted juice is allowed to ferment before bottling. Sparkling wine is made by the traditional Champenoise method, whereby two fermentation processes take place. The first produces the fruity esters and the second, known as the extended lees ageing, is when the wine is bottled and sealed with a temporary crown cap. Now the yeast begins consuming the available sugar within the bottle and produces carbon dioxide which, if not allowed to escape, produces the “fizz” or the bubbles. It then passes through a “Riddling” stage, a procedure to loosen the dead yeast cells and move them, as a plug, slowly to the neck of the bottle. This used to be done by hand now a machine gradually and gently rotates the bottles over a period of time until the sediment is trapped in the neck of the bottle. This is then frozen and the plug of sediment removed without disturbing the rest of the bottle. The final sealing with a champagne cork, a foil cap and secured with wire can then take place. The bottle of “bubbly” is then left to rest before going on sale.
From the bottling plant the tour continues to the Gift Shop for complimentary wine tasting. White wines included the Ortega 2013 winner of the “Best Kent Wine: Taste of Kent Awards 2012 +13”, a crisp medium dry Gribble Bridge White, the Gribble Bridge Rose and the Dornfelder, a light and fruity red.
The Vineyard is open throughout the year and on certain days the guided tour is free, other prices are on application. Our daughter organized our trip as part of a fun day out for Fathers’ Day this year. Other joint tours in conjunction with local attractions are available. There is plenty of free parking and the moderate walk is at a leisurely pace. In the vineyard shop are a selection of local and regional products as well as wines, ciders and juices.
I would like to say a big thank you to our knowledgeable and informative guide and to the other staff members who made us so welcome. If you want an interesting day out and the opportunity to learn about viniculture why not try a visit to one of the many vineyards in our area.
Fishing Beach
CHRISTMAS 2014
Advent 2014 saw us experiencing a taste of the tropics, island-hopping in Cape Verde and the Canary Islands, seeking out some late winter sunshine. We had visited the Canaries many times before, but never ventured as far south as West Africa. The Republic of Cape Verde is an archipelago of islands and islets off the coast of Senegal and some 1,000 km south west of the Canaries. Each of its islands has its own particular history, they first settled by Europeans then by Africans and their descendants. Slavery sadly played a part in the development of the islands; when coastal towns were invaded by pirates the slaves were able to escape to the hills and seek out a relatively safe existence. Later, after the abolition of slavery the freed slaves began new lives as farmers. As a consequence African traditions are a strong legacy in the culture, language and music of the islands.
And these verdant, vertiginous, volcanic islands never ceased to surprise us with their stunning contrasts of landscape and agriculture. On Santiago, Praia the capital, was distinctly African, whilst on the neighboring island of Sao Vicente, Mindelo was conspicuously European with its colonial Portugese style buildings. Whilst visiting Santa Antao we were able to see the abundance of fish in the clear seas around the area. Small opened topped motor boats were landing yellow fin, tuna, Dorado and lumberjack as well as the more familiar sea bream, snapper and perch. We have many colourful memories of the islands, markets selling exotic tropical fruit and vegetables and staples such as tomatoes, sugar cane, bananas, onions, garlic, yams and squash. Housewives, carrying their purchases on their heads were a normal occurrence.
However, in the warmth and the sunshine the festive season seemed a long way off and it was only when we were on board ship that we were reminded that Christmas was just around the corner. Christmas trees adorned every deck and public space, carols were sung and many of the ship’s entertainments were directed towards Christmas, including some Craft lessons for the nimble fingered. But for me, the pastime with most hilarity and good humour was that of learning the art and skills of Napkin Folding; here we were taught the tricks of the trade of turning glossy white napkins into sailing ships, bishops’ hats and yes – even a shirt and a shoe. Of course these sessions were the ideal opportunity to meet other members of the WI from all over the UK. It was great fun sharing experiences of each others meetings and events. Of course, there was, as at any WI meeting, a good deal of friendly banter and much laughter before we had the opportunity of a more formal meeting later in the voyage.
One morning we awoke to discover a snowy gingerbread village winter scene had miraculously appeared in the Atrium. Hansel and Gretel houses, a church and nativity scene all made from shortcake, sweets and gingerbread had been created by the catering team. How they had found time to create such a masterpiece whilst at the same time serving five course meals caused much amazement and gratitude.
Be that as it may my final Christmas memory from the voyage will be that of the sand sculptures in Gran Canaria. Imagine if you will the Nativity story depicted in the sand, almost twice life size the story from the annunciation to the flight into Egypt was carved out of sand. Not a detail was missed from the worried expression on the Magi’s face as they faithfully followed the star of Bethlehem, to the blades of grass as the cow and donkey munched away in the stable. A mammoth task undertaken annually at the seaside town was a reminder that although we had been in the sunshine enjoying a hot sunny day Christmas was almost here.
And now it is New Year and already we are thinking about where our next adventures will be in 2015.
What were you favourite memories of Christmas?
A Happy, healthy and Peaceful New Year to You all.
Gingerbread House
Market
Sand Sculptures
Crocheted Tree Bark
Monet's Garden I recently went to Monet's Garden in Giverny...so beautiful! I was expecting the waterlillies, but in April the tulips are just as wonderful.
Tulips.....
More tulips.....
And even more tulips!
And what a view to wake up to! From the window in Monet's bedroom.
SUMMER SUNSHINE IN FEBRUARY
FISH, FRUIT, FINE WINE AND FUNCHAL
Despite disliking shopping for food at home, once abroad I love seeking out local markets and trying regional produce. In Funchal, the capital of Madeira, the food market covers three floors and plays host to fishmongers, green-grocers, florists, dried fruit and nuts, and candied fruit stalls. The amount and variety of fish on sale is hard to believe. Some fish varieties are recognizable, others intriguing, there are brightly coloured parrot fish, giant cod, tuna , swordfish, mackerel as well as all shapes and sizes of crustaceans. But above all are stall after stall of the highly prized, long, viciously unattractive, deep water Espada or Scabbard fish. This mildly flavoured, succulent white-fleshed fish defines Madeira cooking. It is a black, with an iridescent tint, ugly creature hauled from the subterranean waters off the Iberian Peninsula. Because of its life in bottomless dark waters it has huge bulging eyes and a mouth full of razor sharp fang-like teeth, however, once cooked the beautifully white fillets are delicious - especially when served with banana sautéed in rum. The speed at which the fishmongers prepare the fish for sale is incredible. They de-scale, gut and fillet them in a matter of no time, all the time (see picture below) chattering and laughing with their companions.
Looking at all that delicious food made us feel a little peckish, so we headed towards the “Old Town” where, amongst the cobbled streets, there are more than seventy restaurants to choose from. We chose the Restaurante Sao Jose just down from the Contemporary Art Museum and naturally we just had to try the Espada with banana. Refreshed we made our way back to the harbour. Of course a trip to Madeira would not have been complete without trying a glass of the famous Madeiran wine and again this can be found for sale in the markets. Madeira wine is sweet, dry or medium and is particular to Portugal. During the 17thC when Madeira was exporting wine to the mainland the merchants discovered that the movement of the ships and heat from storage actually improved the quality of the wine. Today this process is replicated in factory ovens which helps make the wine robust and improve longevity. Some wines, if left unopened, can still be drinkable 100years hence; once opened though a bottle can remain fresh for about a year. The 18th/19thC was the golden age for Madeiran wines but during the 19thC disease struck the vines and the Island’s economy was turned over to banana production. The 20thC saw a renaissance in wine production and the fertile volcanic terraces once again returned to viniculture. (See our November 2014 Meeting).
Continuing with the food theme - in the 15thc Christopher Columbus re-victualled his ships on Madeira and in the Canary islands before setting off to the New World. Today a replica of his ship the Santa Maria, which is moored in Funchal Harbour, is used as a tourist boat. We had our first glass of Madeira on board, but not before a pod of Dolphins had entertained us by leaping and diving around and under the ship, frolicking as they sought out the fresh mackerel off the coast. With the huge sails down and no wind we were becalmed, (was this what it must have been like to be in the Doldrums?) and this was the ideal opportunity for the crew – dressed in authentic Columbus style costumes and bare feet - to serve us wine and the deliciously rich Madeiran honey cake.
Back on board our Cruise ship to yet another offering of a 5 course meal, my mind began to wonder how our own chef coped with shopping and re-victualling. Food consumption for 1,090 passengers and a crew of 360 must be enormous. His shopping list, I later discovered included 544kg beef, 943kg fish, 1800 kg potatoes, 3.24 tonnes of vegetables and a staggering 10,300 portions of butter! Never again shall I feel hard done by having to do our little bit of shopping – but I might still long for the pleasure of browsing the Spanish and Portuguese markets in the warm February sunshine.
Love Cooking Unusual Items? Read on......
Quinces My “hunter-gatherer” instinct is never more pronounced than in the autumn. A walk in the woods sees me scurrying, squirrel-like, scouring the ground for chestnuts, or hunting along the hedgerows for blackberries. Nothing delights me more than a gift from someone’s “green-house glut” or a free bag of apples. But today was a bonanza – today I received a bag of quinces! They are an almost forgotten fruit which looks like an ugly, misshapen cross between a pear and an apple, but with a fragrant aroma which fills the house. In an Internet search for new recipe ideas I was amazed at the facts that I did not know about the fruit. For instance, quinces are native to south west Asia and it was from around 600 BC they began their journey westward to the Mediterranean. In 1275 Edward 1 decreed that some of the trees should be planted in the grounds of the Tower of London. By the 18th century quince were being introduced to America’s New England colonies and were taken down under to Australia and New Zealand. Today they are found all over Europe and, in the British Isles, as far north as Scotland. They are deciduous trees with a pretty pink blossom in the spring. Often one or two were planted in apple orchards as an aid to pollination. A member of the apple and pear family they are in season from October to December. Being an ancient fruit generally overlooked by mass growers, today these fruits are more likely to be found in farmer’s markets or specialist grocery stores than in the larger supermarket. However, thanks to television chefs and the increase in popularity of North African and Mediterranean cuisine there is resurgence in the quince’s status. Quinces are used exclusively in cooking. If you try to eat them raw you will find the flesh tough, hard and bitterly astringent. However, when cooked they develop a deep flavour and an amber-pink colour. Their high pectin content makes them ideal for Jams and Jellies. In Morocco they are added to savoury Tagines, whilst in Spain they are made into a thick jelly-like block (similar to Turkish Delight) called Membrillo – this is eaten with Manchego cheese. Whereas in Portugal, where the quince is called ‘Marmelo’, it is frequently used to make marmalade. Tafferty Tart, an apple pie with quinces added to the filling was created in England during the Tudor period. A quince paste known as Quidding was popular in the 17th century and led to a wood-carving art form in its own right. Paste moulds (like those used for shortbread) were carved in all kinds of diverse designs including royal Coats of Arms. As well as being pressed into fancy shapes Quidding was also twisted and knotted into intricate bows and plaits before being eaten as a sweetmeat. In 1730 the Duke of Chesterfield’s master chef grated some quince then infused it for a couple of months in brandy and created a rich amber alcoholic drink which he promptly called “Ratafia of Quince”. Around the same time similar liqueurs, brandies and sweet dessert wines were appearing in cookery books. The fruit has been used for medicinal purposes for a long time. Interestingly in Medieval times apothecaries prescribed quince tinctures as a cure for rashes, sore throats as well as coughs and colds. Evidently this was equally efficacious as an aid to digestion! There are also many cultural associations and legends dealing with quinces, one goes back as far as Adam and Eve. It has been said; in the Garden of Eden Eve tempted Adam not with an apple – but a quince! In Ancient Greece the fruit was supposed to bring Love, Marriage and Fertility and was given to the bride as a wedding present. In Croatia a quince tree would be planted to herald the arrival of a new baby.
What then shall I be doing with my windfall? I am immediately reminded of childhood days, when, on dark winter’s evenings we would sit in front of the fire toasting crumpets and spreading them with thick layers of Quince Jelly. So a jelly or Jam is quite likely. Although I’m not so sure that with central heating I shall be finding a use for the old brass toasting fork! Then as a change from Sloe Gin this year might see my own version of “Ratafia of Quince” made from either Jane Grigson’s or Nigella’s recipe - only mine will be infused in Vodka rather than in brandy, mace ginger and star anise.
Hope you enjoy the photographs and do send in YOUR suggestions for “Food for Free” ideas and recipes.
Love Walnuts? Read on.....
This Month I've Gone Nutty!
Have you noticed the bumper harvest of nuts this autumn?
There appears to me to be a glut of walnuts in the village, I’ve been given so many that it’s led me to think of the Where? Why? What? and When? about them.
For instance, why should I eat walnuts? Nuts, I know, like all things in moderation, are good for me! They help maintain a healthy heart, aid digestion and are an ideal “brain food”. Walnuts in particular are high in fats and protein (and therefore equally high in calories: 7 nuts amount to 185 calories) so they make a filling, nutritious, satisfying snack or can be combined in a variety of different savoury or sweet recipes. Walnuts are high in Omega 3 fats (just like those found in oily fish) and these plant sterols help the body to lower cholesterol. They also contain a high level of antioxidants which protect the body against disease. Being dairy and gluten free, plus full of dietary fibre, scientists are persuaded that walnuts are beneficial in a diet and may help towards lowering the risk of heart disease, some cancers, type 2 diabetes and other cardiovascular problems.
So where did walnuts come from? There is evidence than Neolithic man, 7,000 years ago, enjoyed walnuts. This helps place the nut as one of the earliest tree foods of the hunter gatherers. Originally it was grown in Persia where it was reserved for royalty, but was soon traded along the silk routes to China and Europe. They now grow almost everywhere in Europe and there is a strong industry based around the black walnuts in California.
How were walnuts used throughout history? The Romans candied them in sugar and believed them to be an aphrodisiac and to aid fertility; whilst in Medieval Britain it was believed because of the shape that they could help with matters of the head and brain. In 1597 John Gerard suggested that if eaten with rue they would be a defence against the pestilence of the plague.
With the advent of Cookery Books in the 17th century, the culinary use of walnuts came to the fore and we see them being used in salads, sauces, soups, pickles, ketchup, preserves, breads, cakes, biscuits and pastries. In the 18th and 19th centuries unusual alcoholic beverages such as mead and wine included walnuts in their list of ingredients. And of course we must not forget the ubiquitous Waldorf Salad.
Armed with all this information what will I be doing with my walnuts? Hopefully I will have dried them properly and they will add to the Christmas fare. No doubt some will be nibbled long before then though, of course cake always goes down well, not just at coffee-time, and hopefully someone out there will tell me how to successfully candy walnuts. Then if any are left over after the indulgences of Christmas and New Year we shall enjoy a dish of Spaghetti, Walnuts, Raisins and Parsley.
Limone 2013 One Member's Account of her Recent Holiday in Italy. Click on the photos to make them bigger.
“Do you know the land where the lemon tree blossoms
Among dark leaves the golden oranges glow
A gentle breeze from blue skies drift
The myrtle is still and the laurel stands high
Do you know it well?
There, there
Would I go, with you, my beloved.”
Those words from “Kunnst du das land?” were written by Johan Wolfgang von Goethe (1749-1832) and admirably describe one of the most delightful spots of Lake Garda in Italy.
Limone nestles on a narrow strip of land of the northwesterly shore of Lombardy’s Lake Garda. It is a small, picturesque town primarily renowned for growing lemons. Until about fifty years ago the only way to reach the spot was via the steep, rocky mountains under which the town snuggles or via a boat trip across Lake Garda. Today there is a modern road which makes access much easier but it is far more fun (as we discovered) to take one of the many boats on the lake to Limone. The town's economy once relied on agriculture and fishing, now it has become the most northern part where citrus fruits are grown in Italy. However, in the past half century it has transformed itself from a sleepy fishing village into one of the most popular tourist areas on Lake Garda.
Oddly enough the town's second claim to fame was discovered in 1979. The people in Limone appear to possess a mutant gene in their blood which induces a healthy form of cholesterol which lowers the risk of heart disease. Perhaps this was due to the quality of the mountain air, or the scrumptious citrus fruit for which the town was to become famous, or the tranquil life style enjoyed in the past.
Today, for the inquiring tourist amongst the many inviting places to visit are the ruins of the lemon houses built originally with high walls to protect the precious fruit against the high winds blowing across the lake. Perhaps though, more interesting to most is the opportunity to look at the shops around the historic harbour and the narrow, hilly, cobbled streets with their quaint Italian charm. Here the shops sell everything from traditional leather goods, stylish Italian kitchenware to the ubiquitous lemon and its by-products; bottles of the delicious after dinner digestive Limocello, lemon ice-cream, sweet lemon drops, lemons for jams, jellies, marmalades and chutneys, tableware and linen decorated with lemons. Fresh, dried, preserved, candied in whatever way you can possibly think of the town is a shrine to the lemon.
How I long once again, to return to Limone, with its ambient temperature, and stand on the harbour, with a lemon ice-cream, being cooled by gentle breeze off the lake, slowly watching as the sun sinks below the horizon. Sheer bliss!!
Summer memories sent in by a Woodchurch WI member
Thanks for these beautiful pictures: of Limone. Click on them to see them close up!
Barbara writes here about her recent trip to Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall's River Cottage Canteen and Deli: it sounds gorgeous!
When visiting friends and relations in the south west, one of my favourite places to call at is the Royal William Yard in Plymouth. These Grade 1 buildings are the old victualling buildings for the navy. Built in 1826, on the waterfront at Stonehouse by the entrance to the River Tamar the site was originally named after William IV. With the closure of the Yard in 1992 the area underwent a huge transformation and is now a hotspot for alfresco and evening dining. The old brew house, bakery, cooperage and slaughterhouse have been renovated to chic apartments and stylish eateries. So for me it has two of my favourite holidaying experiences – local history and local cuisine.
I admire today’s TV chefs who campaign for sustainable fishing, promote rare breed meats and go out of their way to support local organic farmers. Hence I am an avid fan of Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s River Cottage programme and was delighted this summer to have the opportunity to dine in The River Cottage Canteen and Deli in Plymouth.
River Cottage is in the converted brew house which overlooks the busy Cremyll Ferry and yacht marina, just around the corner is the naval base. Our evening was warm and balmy with a beautiful vista across to Cornwall. Suddenly a Royal Navy Frigate hove into view, with the crew on deck and busy little tugs and a pilot boat nudging the vessel through the various channels into Plymouth Sound!
When it came to the menu we were spoilt for choice and eventually settled for a mains and a pud! The pan-roasted Pollack with new potatoes and a beetroot and fennel salad melted in the mouth, and there was just room for vanilla panacotta shortbread and spiced apricots. Our delightful evening was complete when the head chef Joe Draper (despite having a packed and busy restaurant) kindly found time to give me his recipe for spiced apricots! This I am sure will appear frequently on our own dining room table over the autumn, bringing back memories of a superb summer evening at River Cottage.
Barbara: Please send us a picture of your spiced apricot re-creations!
Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall
Winter Roast Vegetable Salad - sent in by Glynis.
Glynis, who now lives in New Zealand, has sent in this recipe for us. Her mother was a member of Woodchurch WI back in the 50s before the family emigrated. She tells me that kumara is a kind of sweet potato.
I tried the dish myself a couple of days ago: my husband, John, and I both loved it. I did change a couple of the ingredients, because of what I had and hadn't got in the cupboard. I'll tell you how it was changed underneath Glynis' recipe.
2 large carrots, peeled and sliced 2 parsnips, peeled and sliced 1 small buttercup pumpkin, peeled and cubed into 2 cm pieces 2 large kumara, (sweet potato) peeled and cubed like pumpkin 2 onions, peeled and chopped 3 tbsps extra virgin oil 1 tsp garlic salt Freshly ground pepper 1 x 250grm block feta cheese, cubed into 1-2 cm pieces 1/2 cup chopped parsley 3 tomatoes chopped
Dressing 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil Juice and grated rind of 1 orange 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
Preheat oven to 200* Place vegetables (except tomatoes) into roasting dish and drizzle with oil Toss vegetables to coat well Sprinkle with salt and pepper and roast for 30-35 mins till crispy and cooked through Tip into a large bowl, add feta, parsley, tomatoes and dressing. Toss and mix well Serve hot or cold
"This is so easy to make, I vary the vegetables, sometimes add potatoes, but it always looks very colourful and is so tasty. To cook it quicker I make the vegetables smaller but it wouldnt matter how big the pieces are." Glynis
My version was a little different: I had no garlic salt, so I roasted two unpeeled garlic cloves with the veg, then squished them in to the veg when they were cooked, discarding the skins. I also guessed (or hoped!) that Glynis' buttercup pumpkin is the same as our butternut squash! And I added one chopped sweet pepper to the roasting tray, as my husband loves peppers. We ate it all for lunch with some crusty bread to mop up the juices. And the small amount we had left over was used the next day as a sauce to go with pasta. Two delicious meals...thanks, Glynis!